joie de l'écriture

The weavers in the valley are lost in their own cubicle of time and place. In the attempt to preserve a rich tradition and art they have missed out on a plethora of opportunities that are beckoning both in India and abroad. What hitherto remain untapped markets and unsought customers, can usher the industry into a new realm altogether.

As of today, very few societies have the muscle to cater to the foreign markets. The trade currently occurs with foreign customers by means of international exhibitions that are held in countries like Germany, Singapore, UK, US etc. The government provides assistance in this regard by reimbursing 50% of the expenses incurred. The society equipped with sample pieces and having hired a professional designer awaits bulk orders. Once an order is procured, a number of challenges loom large before the society ranging from availability of enough workforce to meet the demand on time, availability of raw material from Ludhiana that matches the required specification and adhering to the design requirements. One should not assess the quality of a handcrafted shawl and a machine made one under the same lens. There is a need to position handloom in the minds of the foreign customers in a way that would help them appreciate the subtle imperfections inherent in the products. The cost for procuring an order, the risk of being unable to cater to it and the fear of rejection makes exports an expensive affair for the societies causing them to shy away from it. A conglomerate of weavers from across a wide cross section of the industry could be formed that could focus solely on foreign markets. This body will act as a facilitator by procuring raw material, providing information on the latest trends in design and colours in foreign markets, ensuring quality standard of the consignment and distributing the order amongst smaller groups as per their capacity.

As far as urban markets within the country are concerned, they too have different tastes and trends. A better way to reach these consumers would be by opening the industry to privatisation and inviting well established stores like Fab India, the Bombay Store etc. to assist the industry. This would not only help organize the sector to a large extent but also bring the industry under the purview of entrepreneurs and add a new dimension to it. These initiatives at a macro level can help pump life into the industry that’s has been experiencing a silent stifled death in the valley.

Join the campaign at : http://himachal.us/category/save-the-weaver

Is Ignorance Bliss?:: SAVE THE WEAVER

The folks in this valley are just plain contented. Either they have very less aspirations or very high levels of self satisfaction. Either ways it is indubitable that they are not harnessing their true potential. You never know what you have been missing until it arrives. This adage can’t be more apt than for the weavers here.

According to the 1995 census, Kullu district has 28,500 weavers. 12 years since, there has been no track record about these weavers. Officials can only approximate the number to have plummeted to 11,000. Is the industry dying? The bitter truth is that people have begun to opt out of what has always been their part time occupation as other sources of livelihood are found to be more lucrative. The wages paid to the workers on a piece wise basis are meagre. The irony of the situation is that there has been an exodus of weavers from Kullu to Ludhiana which is posing a threat to the handloom industry on the home turf. Little do these weavers realise that the wages are no better in Ludhiana than they are in Kullu. The only difference is the work culture that prevails in the two regions. Those at Ludhiana follow a strict regime of 8 hours of work per weaver per day while in Kullu it is left to the weaver to decide his work hours. As the weavers exercise their right to free will they put at stake their earnings and end up with a measly sum of Rs. 105 per day at the rate of Rs 15 per basic shawl woven. The low turnout of workers makes it cumbersome for the society to cater to the demand in the market, resulting in low profits, which in turn results in low wages and few incentives for people to be associated with this profession. The vicious circle continues.

While some associate the inherent lassitude among Himachalis to the climate here, some others believe that for a state which thrives on tourism, quick alternative sources of income prove to be more attractive to the locals. A basket of fresh handpicked apples can fetch them more money than can a day’s work on the handloom. The face of the industry changes with the turn of the season. The maximum production happens in the winter when other avenues of income slow down. Moreover, the hilly terrain in itself poses hindrances for the weaver to reach the work place. The state government could be forthcoming in this regard by providing concessional passes to the weavers for commuting from the nearest bus stop to the work place. A scheme on the line of Mid-day meals can be designed for these weavers that would help them devote more time to weaving.

In spite of the multitude of schemes that have been introduced by the government for those organized as societies and self help groups, how well have the benefits been percolating to the grass root level is still a matter of concern. The awareness level about the welfare schemes is low among the weavers themselves. There is a dire need to disseminate information about the schemes and the local melas, festivals and the traditional street plays could be used as effective channels. The exploitation of the weavers by the defunct societies by confiscating their handlooms, delay in payment of wages etc. can be curbed by unionising the weavers and by making the existing Weavers’ Association more active.

The future would continue to seem bleak until the concerns of the weavers who happen to be the lifeblood of the industry are addressed and they are given a fair chance that they duly deserve.

Institutionalised Training

The only thing that is permanent in today’s world is change. We need to move with time if not ahead of it and that calls for a new entrepreneurial outlook, a zest to explore foreign markets, the gen about how technology can complement traditional skills, the vision to undertake initiatives and up and above all the drive to think big and execute ideas whose time has come. While most business today are engulfed in thinking about the ‘Next Big Thing’, the handloom industry in Kullu lacks the much required technical knowhow that can alleviate the ailing industry of its problems.

The art of weaving is something everyone in the valley masters at a very early age. Each family has a handloom in their home and traditionally they have been involved in weaving shawls at home for the winter. Presently, the weavers who are associated with societies can avail training facilities through government schemes. The Human Resource Development (HRD) Ministry has initiated the STEP (Support to Training and Employment Program) project for training women. Weaving is an activity mainly carried out by the fairer gender here. Some major societies take assistance from institutes like National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) and National Institute of Design (NID) to keep abreast with trends in the urban and foreign markets. However, such vital information that offers competitive advantage is beyond the ken of the local players due to the associated costs. The Integrated Cluster Development Project has been instrumental in providing technical assistance to the weavers registered under it as Self Help Groups (SHGs). On the flip side with little vigilance on the authenticity of the SHGs formed there is scepticism that the benefits of the government schemes are enjoyed by power looms. With 50 self help groups registered every year, each comprising of 12 members on an average, the scheme has its own limitations of reaching the weavers at the grass root levels. The government training workshops too draw interest only due to the stipend that the weavers receive on attending these. The training provided is substandard and the inclination to learn is at the minimum.

The industry needs to adopt a model that emphasises on bringing about an educational renaissance. Sustaining the weaving industry does not imply that it constitutes solely of weavers who sit and weave shawls on the handlooms every day. This tunnelled vision needs to change and one needs to look at the broader horizon. The government can be forthcoming in this regard by establishing an Indian Institute of Handloom Technology (IIHT) in the district that could play a pivotal role in changing the face of the industry. It could give a fresh impetus to talent in the associated fields of textile design and structure, fabric analysis, laboratory testing, history of costumes in the country and abroad, apparel production techniques, merchandising and marketing, fashion photography, event management, computer design systems, wardrobe planning, technical writing, workshop training etc. giving a holistic thrust to the industry for it sustenance. It would also make the industry lucrative to the next generation which is moving to greener pastures due to increased education levels. To bring about an inclusive development, primary schools imparting practical knowledge on weaving could be started for the kids of the weavers. Different aspects of weaving could be inculcated in the course structure for different grades. Such an educational model can be expected to be sustainable as opposed to the one-time training workshops for a handful of weavers that neither instigates in them the willingness to learn nor propagates the necessity to be educated in this field.

To be a part of the campaign or to know about it visit us at http://himachal.us/category/save-the-weaver

For tourists from across the globe, the hilly terrain of Manali-Shimla is a shoppers’ paradise for woollens. Little are these tourists aware that the heart of the weaving industry is in the small town of Kullu, 40Kms away from Manali. As one enters this scenic valley, colourful traditional Kullu shawls dot the sideways of every market street and huge signboards on tiny shops flash ‘Traditional Kullu Shawls.’ This is bait to the blind crocodile. Many of these shawls are not even handcrafted let alone the fact that these are sourced from other towns in the country.

Is it that one doesn’t care enough to make an informed decision while buying or is it that one fails to see the value in a handcrafted product? I am afraid it’s both. On the one hand the tourists have little or no time on their itinerary to walk to a local store and are always directed by their travel guides or the local rickshaw drivers and cabbies to one of the numerous bogus shops that sell machine made shawls at hefty discounts that are as high as 50%. A setup of a few handlooms in the periphery of the store serve as perfect alibi to sell the machine made shawls. While the tourist walks out of the store with discounted shawls, the local guide walks away with his share of commission, thus making this whole act of money making a farce in the name of tourism.

On the other hand, as consumers we fail to recognize the value of a handcrafted product. The value of art does not reside in the price we pay for it but in the efforts that have gone into making that masterpiece; that masterpiece which is born out of the dexterity of the weaver, his eye for weaving an intricate design from his own palette of colours, the long hours of adeptly crossing the warp and woof to create kaleidoscopic patterns on the fabric, and create designs which by no means can be replicated on a programmed machine that churns out a batch of immaculate shawls at the press of a machine in a couple of minutes while the weaver spends on an average four days to weave an elaborate design on his handloom. We must learn to appreciate the beauty of inherent imperfections in a handcrafted product that renders it its exclusivity. No price is too high to pay for unadulterated art, be it for the purity of the wool, the sanctity of the natural organic dyes or the simplicity and genuineness of the heart of the person who is making it.

To be a part of the campaign or to know about it visit us at http://himachal.us/category/save-the-weaver