A city that awakens and falls asleep to the hoot of the sprightly red engine and deep green wagons that seem to break the ever prevailing leisurely hours at the railway station with tiny white edifices laced with deep blue arches, is like a chapter of the history text book turned into life. The trip on the narrow gauge train, The Toy Train as it is fondly called, is an experience every avid traveller should find a mention in his travelogue. The miniature locomotive lazily cuts its way through scenic landscapes, picturesque valleys, and lush-green patches of step farms with splashes of fiery red Rhododendrons while whistling its way through the peppermint cool woods. What lies beyond the station is a world trapped in its own cubicle of time and space to preserve what I would like to call ‘the innocence of the human spirit’.
The warmth of the pale skinned people with apple-red cheeks, easily identifiable with their peculiar way of speaking, razor sharp noses, rosy lips and hazelnut to coffee brown eyes, make up for the dip of quick silver in the thermometer. If I were to describe this city, which in fact is far more than just that, in one word I would say ‘Royal.’ And I say this being completely aware of the fact that the British ruled this province long enough to imprint an indelible British touch to the life as well as the lifestyle of the locals or maybe it is out of my interpretation and admiration of this unique diaspora. It’s wonderful to see how two cultures from different hemispheres of the globe have blended together to give birth to a new ethnicity that holds its roots of values in the Indian system while the shoots of mannerism have followed the direction of the West as the sun. A city slicker is bound to get mesmerized by the tranquillity of the place, by the serenity that the simple sight of the hills and the pine trees has to offer, by the absence of any sound but for the gentle whispers of people who stroll on the Ridge Road or at The Mall, and by the childlike joy of watching colours dot a plain white street as people meander on the streets in their vibrant woollens, by the magnificence of the brass statues and the associated legends and stories that have almost an era frozen in them, by rediscovering the secrets to simple pleasures in life like getting your name woven on a woollen tag or taking a picture in one of the traditional attires against the backdrop of the hills, watching the clear blue skies drift as the sun shines on you with all its brightness and the cool breeze gently blows kisses at you or even by a breath taking bird’s eye view of the city from a vantage.
The cafes play songs you have long forgotten and believe me it feels beautiful to refresh your memory with the sweetness that’s intertwined in the lyrics, the touch of folklore in the music and the ever romantic symphony of the saxophone. The linen, the curtains, the upholstery, the silverware, and even the font on the menu card are just so exotic! The architectures seem to be straight out of the fairy tales like the castles where once lived pretty princesses before you retired to bed. The guards have an awe inspiring aura around them with their smart uniforms and chivalry looks. The aroma of fresh bread from the local bakeries, the tempting creamy pineapple pastries and chocolate cookies, the whiff of Irish coffee that lingers in the air and the dainty shops lined up on the edge of the lanes that stock their goods in every colour and every shade that the human eye can come close to recognizing is like the capstone of all the beauty that the city derives from its proximity to the hills.
The eternal beauty of the Gothic structure of the Viceroy’s Palace with delicate wild shrubs in a feminine mauve and a bright lemon yellow hugging the rustic stony castle pillars with intricate carvings is, by the opinion of yours truly, the finest epitome of architectural grandeur. The castle overshadows lush green lawns bordered with flowers with the rarest combination of hues that smile at you from a distance because that is how Nature has painted them from its canvass of colours. ‘Mickey Mouse’ flowers I like to call them. The palace is one of the best maintained heritage sites, which has successfully preserved history untainted by time and visitors. One gets the feeling of flipping through pages of a history text book as the doors are thrown open and the guide ushers you from one majestic hall to another. Snapshots from the past chronicle events that have laid milestones in the history of the nation. I personally have found immense awe and admiration for this small town lost in time and I revere it for the very fact that not all is lost in the name of ‘development.’