A Litmus Test for Authentic Kullu Shawls :: Save the Weaver
23:59 - Posted by Shilpa K - 1 comments

A Litmus Test for Authentic Kullu Shawls

The scenic landscapes of Kullu beckon the avid travellers to visit the hinterlands of this small town. Shopping does take a top priority on the itinerary of these tourists from all across the globe. It’s observed that most foreign tourists acquaint themselves to the location by investing a great deal of time in reading about it through books like the Lonely Planet and Thomas Cook travel guide. The internet has also recently been one of the popular medium through which tourist information is disseminated. The natives on the other hand usually come through package tours and are spoon fed by their travel guides. There is no exception to this rule even when it comes to picking a store to buy a shawl. Most tourists are directed by the travel agent. They seem to be least aware of the fact that the hub of the shawl weaving industry is Kullu and not the more popular tourist destinations of Shimla and Manali. The general perception is that one would get better variety of woollens and knitwear in these locations than a small town like Kullu. While this may be true with respect to sweaters and other knitwear, they are uninformed about the cultural linkages and the magnitude of weaving that happens in the valley, the reason being ineffective marketing initiatives.

While most tourists are misguided into buying machine made shawls from outside Kullu some others are lured into buying them at bulky discounts as high as 50-80%. The economies of scale that can be achieved on the power loom and the reduction in the cost of raw materials due to the local presence of processing centres make it possible for Ludhiana and the neighbouring areas to influx the Kullu markets with elaborately designed shawls, with finer fabric, offered in a wider palette of colours at throw away prices. The tourist with an urban taste and the intention of taking away a couple of these shawls as souvenirs are definite customers for these shawls. But the problem that looms large is about tourists being unable to distinguish between a handmade shawl and a machine made one even when they value a handmade shawl. A litmus test for such tourists is to see the reverse side of the woven garment. If the design appears the same either ways, that’s an indication that the shawl is handcrafted. The government of India has also introduced the handloom mark which is a certification that the product is handcrafted and not machine made. The mark costs 60 paise per unit. While some major players that are organized as societies do implement this mark to establish their credibility, there is a major slack in the implementation of this mark as a large cross section of the weavers considers it to be an added cost due to unawareness amongst the consumers about the importance of this mark. The bigger players also have acquired the international WoolMark certification that establishes the quality standard of the raw material used. However, the exorbitant fees required to acquire this certification has kept others from applying for it. Thus, although the raw material is sourced from the same location, the presence of the WoolMark on the shawls of some of the influential players attracts a major population of the quality conscious consumers to these branded shawls. In order to combat competition from shawls that are sourced from outside and labelled as ‘Kullu Shawls’, the district has acquired a Geographical Indicator (GI) for the Kullu Shawls. The GI mark signifies that the product has been handcrafted in the Kullu district. A violation of this mark would include a monetary penalty of Rs. 50,000 to Rs. 3,00,000 and/or imprisonment for 3 years.

For the common consumer the difference between the handmade shawl and the machine made shawl is apparently subtle. However, a closer look at the two would bring out the merits and differences between the two. The finish rendered to the handmade shawl is comparatively coarser as it helps retain the warmth of the wool. The designs on the handcrafted one are typically ‘Kullu’, like the ones found on the caps of the men here. The dyes used are organic, eco-friendly and are non toxic for the skin. The acrylic dyes used in the machine made shawls, which makes it possible to weave myriad hues in the fabric, are identified as carcinogenic. Moreover, the original properties of the fibre are maintained in the handloom as it is subjected to lesser tension and stress as against the power loom where the yarn becomes brittle leading to breakages in the fibre. This consequently reduces the life of the machine made shawl. The design of the handcrafted shawl is born purely out of the skill of the weaver and is impossible to replicate on the machine.
It’s believed that beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder. So for those who can perceive value in the exclusivity of a handmade shawl and appreciate the efforts that go behind its making, a conscious decision to make a deliberate choice between the handmade and machine made shawl is only natural.


An Eye-opener for Tourists :: Save the Weaver
23:47 - Posted by Shilpa K - 0 comments
SAVE THE WEAVER
This is a series of articles dedicated to the Traditional Kullu Shawl Weaving industry. The art of weaving is a part of the Kullu tradition and pride. Many here believe this art would die with the turn of the generation as it is no longer considered lucrative by the locals here. In our efforts to revive this industry we present a hotchpotch of views, ideas, opinions, facts and ground realities.

An Eye-opener for Tourists


For tourists from across the globe, the hilly terrain of Manali-Shimla is a shoppers’ paradise for woollens. Little are these tourists aware that the heart of the weaving industry is in the small town of Kullu, 40Kms away from Manali. As one enters this scenic valley, colourful traditional Kullu shawls dot the sideways of every market street and huge signboards on tiny shops flash ‘Traditional Kullu Shawls.’ This is bait to the blind crocodile. Many of these shawls are not even handcrafted let alone the fact that these are sourced from other towns in the country.

Is it that one doesn’t care enough to make an informed decision while buying or is it that one fails to see the value in a handcrafted product? I am afraid it’s both. On the one hand the tourists have little or no time on their itinerary to walk to a local store and are always directed by their travel guides or the local rickshaw drivers and cabbies to one of the numerous bogus shops that sell machine made shawls at hefty discounts that are as high as 50%. A setup of a few handlooms in the periphery of the store serve as perfect alibi to sell the machine made shawls. While the tourist walks out of the store with discounted shawls, the local guide walks away with his share of commission, thus making this whole act of money making a farce in the name of tourism.

On the other hand, as consumers we fail to recognize the value of a handcrafted product. The value of art does not reside in the price we pay for it but in the efforts that have gone into making that masterpiece; that masterpiece which is born out of the dexterity of the weaver, his eye for weaving an intricate design from his own palette of colours, the long hours of adeptly crossing the warp and woof to create kaleidoscopic patterns on the fabric, and create designs which by no means can be replicated on a programmed machine that churns out a batch of immaculate shawls at the press of a machine in a couple of minutes while the weaver spends on an average four days to weave an elaborate design on his handloom. We must learn to appreciate the beauty of inherent imperfections in a handcrafted product that renders it its exclusivity. No price is too high to pay for unadulterated art, be it for the purity of the wool, the sanctity of the natural organic dyes or the simplicity and genuineness of the heart of the person who is making it.

To be a part of the campaign or to know about it visit us at http://himachal.us/category/save-the-weaver



Save the Weaver
23:05 - Posted by Shilpa K - 0 comments

Are we crucifying Art at the altar of Technology? Are the benefits of development restricted only to those at the top of the pyramid? Are those at the grass root level being exploited? Do we as consumers bestow enough faith in the genuineness of the product that we buy? Do we think twice before we buy? Do we value the beauty of a handcrafted product?

These are the questions that remain unanswered in the valley even as thousands of weavers spend days on their handlooms, in their tiny houses, in the most inaccessible corners, with unparalleled dexterity with the warp and the woof, creating the most exquisite traditional designs. For a weaver the challenges are many, the possibilities infinite. The problem lies in the fact that illiteracy makes these weavers oblivious to the extent of their own capabilities and skills. With the meagre wages, the inaccessibility to market, the threat from power looms, the lack of entrepreneurial drive, and the exploitation associated with illiteracy, an average weaver has a hand to mouth existence. Slowly but surely he is being pulled deeper into the spiral of poverty. For survival he has started exploring greener pastures which guarantee him a quick income.

SAVE THE WEAVER is as much about securing the source of livelihood for the locals here as much as it is about preserving the rich heritage of handlooms in the valley. The art is dying, and with it will die the sense of pride about an Indian tradition. These weavers don’t want your sympathy. All they want is a fair chance to prove themselves and weave colour back into their life. We urge you to come forward and help us create awareness about the problems faced by the weavers and restore the lost glory of the art.

To volunteer in the drive, leave a comment here or visit us at http://himachal.us/category/save-the-weaver