joie de l'écriture

The weavers in the valley are lost in their own cubicle of time and place. In the attempt to preserve a rich tradition and art they have missed out on a plethora of opportunities that are beckoning both in India and abroad. What hitherto remain untapped markets and unsought customers, can usher the industry into a new realm altogether.

As of today, very few societies have the muscle to cater to the foreign markets. The trade currently occurs with foreign customers by means of international exhibitions that are held in countries like Germany, Singapore, UK, US etc. The government provides assistance in this regard by reimbursing 50% of the expenses incurred. The society equipped with sample pieces and having hired a professional designer awaits bulk orders. Once an order is procured, a number of challenges loom large before the society ranging from availability of enough workforce to meet the demand on time, availability of raw material from Ludhiana that matches the required specification and adhering to the design requirements. One should not assess the quality of a handcrafted shawl and a machine made one under the same lens. There is a need to position handloom in the minds of the foreign customers in a way that would help them appreciate the subtle imperfections inherent in the products. The cost for procuring an order, the risk of being unable to cater to it and the fear of rejection makes exports an expensive affair for the societies causing them to shy away from it. A conglomerate of weavers from across a wide cross section of the industry could be formed that could focus solely on foreign markets. This body will act as a facilitator by procuring raw material, providing information on the latest trends in design and colours in foreign markets, ensuring quality standard of the consignment and distributing the order amongst smaller groups as per their capacity.

As far as urban markets within the country are concerned, they too have different tastes and trends. A better way to reach these consumers would be by opening the industry to privatisation and inviting well established stores like Fab India, the Bombay Store etc. to assist the industry. This would not only help organize the sector to a large extent but also bring the industry under the purview of entrepreneurs and add a new dimension to it. These initiatives at a macro level can help pump life into the industry that’s has been experiencing a silent stifled death in the valley.

Join the campaign at : http://himachal.us/category/save-the-weaver

Is Ignorance Bliss?:: SAVE THE WEAVER

The folks in this valley are just plain contented. Either they have very less aspirations or very high levels of self satisfaction. Either ways it is indubitable that they are not harnessing their true potential. You never know what you have been missing until it arrives. This adage can’t be more apt than for the weavers here.

According to the 1995 census, Kullu district has 28,500 weavers. 12 years since, there has been no track record about these weavers. Officials can only approximate the number to have plummeted to 11,000. Is the industry dying? The bitter truth is that people have begun to opt out of what has always been their part time occupation as other sources of livelihood are found to be more lucrative. The wages paid to the workers on a piece wise basis are meagre. The irony of the situation is that there has been an exodus of weavers from Kullu to Ludhiana which is posing a threat to the handloom industry on the home turf. Little do these weavers realise that the wages are no better in Ludhiana than they are in Kullu. The only difference is the work culture that prevails in the two regions. Those at Ludhiana follow a strict regime of 8 hours of work per weaver per day while in Kullu it is left to the weaver to decide his work hours. As the weavers exercise their right to free will they put at stake their earnings and end up with a measly sum of Rs. 105 per day at the rate of Rs 15 per basic shawl woven. The low turnout of workers makes it cumbersome for the society to cater to the demand in the market, resulting in low profits, which in turn results in low wages and few incentives for people to be associated with this profession. The vicious circle continues.

While some associate the inherent lassitude among Himachalis to the climate here, some others believe that for a state which thrives on tourism, quick alternative sources of income prove to be more attractive to the locals. A basket of fresh handpicked apples can fetch them more money than can a day’s work on the handloom. The face of the industry changes with the turn of the season. The maximum production happens in the winter when other avenues of income slow down. Moreover, the hilly terrain in itself poses hindrances for the weaver to reach the work place. The state government could be forthcoming in this regard by providing concessional passes to the weavers for commuting from the nearest bus stop to the work place. A scheme on the line of Mid-day meals can be designed for these weavers that would help them devote more time to weaving.

In spite of the multitude of schemes that have been introduced by the government for those organized as societies and self help groups, how well have the benefits been percolating to the grass root level is still a matter of concern. The awareness level about the welfare schemes is low among the weavers themselves. There is a dire need to disseminate information about the schemes and the local melas, festivals and the traditional street plays could be used as effective channels. The exploitation of the weavers by the defunct societies by confiscating their handlooms, delay in payment of wages etc. can be curbed by unionising the weavers and by making the existing Weavers’ Association more active.

The future would continue to seem bleak until the concerns of the weavers who happen to be the lifeblood of the industry are addressed and they are given a fair chance that they duly deserve.

Institutionalised Training

The only thing that is permanent in today’s world is change. We need to move with time if not ahead of it and that calls for a new entrepreneurial outlook, a zest to explore foreign markets, the gen about how technology can complement traditional skills, the vision to undertake initiatives and up and above all the drive to think big and execute ideas whose time has come. While most business today are engulfed in thinking about the ‘Next Big Thing’, the handloom industry in Kullu lacks the much required technical knowhow that can alleviate the ailing industry of its problems.

The art of weaving is something everyone in the valley masters at a very early age. Each family has a handloom in their home and traditionally they have been involved in weaving shawls at home for the winter. Presently, the weavers who are associated with societies can avail training facilities through government schemes. The Human Resource Development (HRD) Ministry has initiated the STEP (Support to Training and Employment Program) project for training women. Weaving is an activity mainly carried out by the fairer gender here. Some major societies take assistance from institutes like National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) and National Institute of Design (NID) to keep abreast with trends in the urban and foreign markets. However, such vital information that offers competitive advantage is beyond the ken of the local players due to the associated costs. The Integrated Cluster Development Project has been instrumental in providing technical assistance to the weavers registered under it as Self Help Groups (SHGs). On the flip side with little vigilance on the authenticity of the SHGs formed there is scepticism that the benefits of the government schemes are enjoyed by power looms. With 50 self help groups registered every year, each comprising of 12 members on an average, the scheme has its own limitations of reaching the weavers at the grass root levels. The government training workshops too draw interest only due to the stipend that the weavers receive on attending these. The training provided is substandard and the inclination to learn is at the minimum.

The industry needs to adopt a model that emphasises on bringing about an educational renaissance. Sustaining the weaving industry does not imply that it constitutes solely of weavers who sit and weave shawls on the handlooms every day. This tunnelled vision needs to change and one needs to look at the broader horizon. The government can be forthcoming in this regard by establishing an Indian Institute of Handloom Technology (IIHT) in the district that could play a pivotal role in changing the face of the industry. It could give a fresh impetus to talent in the associated fields of textile design and structure, fabric analysis, laboratory testing, history of costumes in the country and abroad, apparel production techniques, merchandising and marketing, fashion photography, event management, computer design systems, wardrobe planning, technical writing, workshop training etc. giving a holistic thrust to the industry for it sustenance. It would also make the industry lucrative to the next generation which is moving to greener pastures due to increased education levels. To bring about an inclusive development, primary schools imparting practical knowledge on weaving could be started for the kids of the weavers. Different aspects of weaving could be inculcated in the course structure for different grades. Such an educational model can be expected to be sustainable as opposed to the one-time training workshops for a handful of weavers that neither instigates in them the willingness to learn nor propagates the necessity to be educated in this field.

To be a part of the campaign or to know about it visit us at http://himachal.us/category/save-the-weaver

For tourists from across the globe, the hilly terrain of Manali-Shimla is a shoppers’ paradise for woollens. Little are these tourists aware that the heart of the weaving industry is in the small town of Kullu, 40Kms away from Manali. As one enters this scenic valley, colourful traditional Kullu shawls dot the sideways of every market street and huge signboards on tiny shops flash ‘Traditional Kullu Shawls.’ This is bait to the blind crocodile. Many of these shawls are not even handcrafted let alone the fact that these are sourced from other towns in the country.

Is it that one doesn’t care enough to make an informed decision while buying or is it that one fails to see the value in a handcrafted product? I am afraid it’s both. On the one hand the tourists have little or no time on their itinerary to walk to a local store and are always directed by their travel guides or the local rickshaw drivers and cabbies to one of the numerous bogus shops that sell machine made shawls at hefty discounts that are as high as 50%. A setup of a few handlooms in the periphery of the store serve as perfect alibi to sell the machine made shawls. While the tourist walks out of the store with discounted shawls, the local guide walks away with his share of commission, thus making this whole act of money making a farce in the name of tourism.

On the other hand, as consumers we fail to recognize the value of a handcrafted product. The value of art does not reside in the price we pay for it but in the efforts that have gone into making that masterpiece; that masterpiece which is born out of the dexterity of the weaver, his eye for weaving an intricate design from his own palette of colours, the long hours of adeptly crossing the warp and woof to create kaleidoscopic patterns on the fabric, and create designs which by no means can be replicated on a programmed machine that churns out a batch of immaculate shawls at the press of a machine in a couple of minutes while the weaver spends on an average four days to weave an elaborate design on his handloom. We must learn to appreciate the beauty of inherent imperfections in a handcrafted product that renders it its exclusivity. No price is too high to pay for unadulterated art, be it for the purity of the wool, the sanctity of the natural organic dyes or the simplicity and genuineness of the heart of the person who is making it.

To be a part of the campaign or to know about it visit us at http://himachal.us/category/save-the-weaver

There is a reason for each of us to exist. I am not sure if I have found my reason and even if I have, if it is a good enough reason to be. But I am sure, whatever be my raison d'être, I have lived for someone and that someone is none other than me. I am not trying to paint a self obsessed disposition, but in my opinion every person has the reins of his life in his hands unless by will or otherwise he decides to ‘outsource’ it to someone else. How many of us can define what our hobbies are? How many can distinguish our hobbies from our interests? Moreover, how many can separate it from our profession, from our education and from our routine. I strongly disagree with people who try and mould their profession around their hobbies for the belief that you can be good at something only when you like it. You think my mom loves cooking? Yet she makes the best cottage cheese vegetable in town that could send all the eateries on a run for their money. Hobbies, interests and professions are three completely different things although there does exist a grey area between them. They form what the economists call the impossible trinity. Before I mess economics with philosophy and create unintended humour on paper, let me KISS. That’s the shortest way to glory. It adds that much needed geeky touch to your persona when you want to cast yourself as a high-flier, jet-setter, sophisticated high profile guy who has everything in the world from a swimming pool in his bedroom to a limousine in his backyard but falls short of time to talk. And for those who are still a little alien to this make believe world of ‘un’professional banter here’s a little secret; KISS stands for Keep It Simple Stupid! As you can see I am not so good at it myself.

Sometimes I wonder if profession is a conscious decision or some just make it appear to be such. Wouldn’t that mean they could be better actors and therefore are themselves in the wrong profession? One of the most powerful ads that hit me in the face read ‘Almost followed her friend to an MBA’ with a ravishing supermodel in a jade green gown walking on the ramp. That’s what good marketing can do. Make you think. Think about the larger issues in life although you are as much a part of the rat race as anyone around you. Do you realise that even if you come first in a rat race at the end of the day you would still be a rat? The way I see it, profession is something you would ‘not hate doing’ for a livelihood. So after the elimination of some of the infinite possibilities one is left with what he might pursue as a profession to earn his bread and butter. Something that is dignified enough for that person to put on his business card, something that is considered distinguished enough to introduce himself to a group of strangers, something that is the profession of the decade – it’s like the colour of the season. Soon the fairer sex might be subjected to the vulnerability of the disclosure of age through profession. Office politics, long work hours, demanding boss, work load, work pressures are all different ways of stating the one prevailing fact of life. At the end of the day work sucks! It does as much for a supermodel as much for an executive. That is where the boundary of ‘profession’ slowly dissolves and ‘interest’ comes under the spotlight. You very strongly believe that you were born to be nothing but a photographer. You think about this while in your clinic looking at the X-ray of one of the remotest organs of the anatomy. You are left with no choice but to thrive on the faint remains of the resemblances between the two professions. An interest however is like a mirage. You are pretty sure of its existence until you reach there. It’s also so much like a balloon. You blow too much into it and it flies off. It’s like a piece of gum. You chew too much into it and it saps the flavour out of it. Interest is something that comes to birth and dies by the whims and fancies of the verdant human mind. It is like the sunset, a different hue by every passing hour. The pleasure lies in toying with different ideas that seem impossible, things you couldn’t, shouldn’t or wouldn’t but always wanted to do.

But something that really reflects the kind of person that you are is the hobby that you pursue because hobbies cannot be forced, they cannot be compelled, and they cannot be thrust upon an individual against his freewill. It is like the eternal sunshine of the spotless mind. It is like the first droplet of the rain in the summer sun. Refreshing and relieving. It’s the feeling that a claustrophobic gets when he is out of a dungeon. A few strokes on the canvass, a few twirls on the tip of the toe, a sonnet written on hand made paper, a charcoal sketch of the winter landscape, the city skyline captured on a Polaroid…the countless possibilities for a human mind when it seeks solace from a materialistic profession and from the maddening and flickering interests, to reach the fossiled remains of innocence in the deepest corners of the human heart!